This estate makes a beautiful Lirac and their 2019 is 50% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah, and a splash of Cinsault that’s from a mix of different terroirs. Destemmed and brought up in equal parts demi-muids and concrete tanks, it’s a seriously good wine that has loads of black raspberry, spice, and garrigue notes, medium to full body, a lush, ripe, yet seamless mouthfeel, and a great finish. It’s well worth seeking out and is ideal for drinking over the coming 3-5 years.
Moving to the 2019s from bottle, the 2019 Lirac offers medium to full-bodied aromas and flavors of dark fruits, peppery herbs, earth, and hints of violets. It’s textured, balanced, and a rock-solid bottle of wine that will evolve for 5-7 years.
The 2018 Lirac is made from 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and the rest Mourvèdre, all brought up in foudre, demi-muid and tank. It’s a more serious, straight, nicely structured wine compared to the L’Unique cuvée and has beautiful black raspberry and hints of cassis fruit, plenty of pepper, garrigue, and floral notes, medium body, beautiful balanced, and sweet tannins. It’s another charming, beautiful wine to enjoy over the coming 4-6 years.
Unquestionably one of the top estates in France is that of brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, whose estate is located just north of the village of Châteauneuf du Pape, on the route to Orange. They pull from roughly 60 hectares of vines and the lineup has grown to include a Vin de France l’Unique, which replaces their Côtes Du Rhône, as well as a terrific Lirac. Looking at their Châteauneuf du Papes, the classic cuvée is always a Grenache heavy blend that include 15-20% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, as well as a small amount of Cinsault. This cuvée is normally mostly destemmed (the 2017 has around 30% stems) and is brought up in a mix of used barrels. The Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Mon Aïeul always comes from the La Serres, La Crau, and La Guigasse lieux-dits and is 100% Grenache. It can vary from being completely destemmed or not at all depending on the vintage, and while past vintages saw a touch of new oak, it’s raised all in used demi-muids today. They also produce a tiny amount of their Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres and it’s always been a more modern styled cuvée in the past, but the amount of new oak has been cut dramatically in recent vintages, with the 2016 only seeing 20% new barrels. This cuvée is always a cellar selection of the top lots in any vintage, and it’s unfortunately not made in either 2017 or 2018. Lastly, and only in great vintages, they’ll pull out a single barrel from the Les Serres lieu-dit that’s from the oldest vines of the estate. This “Not For You” cuvée has been released in 2007, 2010, and 2016, and it’s Grenache at its most sexy, flamboyant, and over the top.
A blend of 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault, the 2017 Lirac was brought up in a mix of demi-muid and tank. It has classic notes of black raspberries, cassis, white flowers, graphite, and pepper. These carry to a medium to full-bodied red that has fine tannins, a balanced, classic, elegant profile, and a great finish.
Unquestionably one of the top estates in France is that of brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, whose estate is located just north of the village of Châteauneuf du Pape, on the route to Orange. They pull from roughly 60 hectares of vines and the lineup has grown to include a Vin de France l’Unique, which replaces their Côtes Du Rhône, as well as a terrific Lirac. Looking at their Châteauneuf du Papes, the classic cuvée is always a Grenache heavy blend that include 15-20% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, as well as a small amount of Cinsault. This cuvée is normally mostly destemmed (the 2017 has around 30% stems) and is brought up in a mix of used barrels. The Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Mon Aïeul always comes from the La Serres, La Crau, and La Guigasse lieux-dits and is 100% Grenache. It can vary from being completely destemmed or not at all depending on the vintage, and while past vintages saw a touch of new oak, it’s raised all in used demi-muids today. They also produce a tiny amount of their Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres and it’s always been a more modern styled cuvée in the past, but the amount of new oak has been cut dramatically in recent vintages, with the 2016 only seeing 20% new barrels. This cuvée is always a cellar selection of the top lots in any vintage, and it’s unfortunately not made in either 2017 or 2018. Lastly, and only in great vintages, they’ll pull out a single barrel from the Les Serres lieu-dit that’s from the oldest vines of the estate. This “Not For You” cuvée has been released in 2007, 2010, and 2016, and it’s Grenache at its most sexy, flamboyant, and over the top.
The 2016 Lirac checks in as 70% Grenache and the rest Mourvèdre, Syrah, and other permitted varieties, with the Mourvèdre and Syrah brought up mostly in demi-muids. Blackberries, garrigue, peppery herbs, licorice, and earth characteristics give way to a full-bodied, pure, elegant, beautifully textured 2016 that has remarkable purity and length. It’s one of the finest Liracs out there.
When you consider what this estate has accomplished over the past two decades, it’s easy to include Domaine Pierre Usseglio as not only one of the top addresses in Châteauneuf-du-Pape but in all of France as well. They have been on a sensational roll since 1998 and have yet to put a foot wrong. And that’s apparent with these latest 2016s, which I believe are the best wines ever produced here. In addition to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape releases, the estate makes a fabulous Côtes du Rhône and Lirac, both of which over-deliver.
2019 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Chateauneuf Du Pape Not For You !
A wine you don’t see often (there’s only one barrel made), the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Not For You is 100% Grenache from the 100+-year-old vines in the Les Serres lieu-dit that’s brought up in a new demi-muid. It’s a monster of a wine offering a Southern Rhône street market-like array of red and black fruits, peppery garrigue, lavender, cured meats, and spicy oak. Incredibly unique, full-bodied, heady, and concentrated, it’s not going to be for everyone, but it’s a singular Châteauneuf du Pape I suspect best enjoyed at the end of a meal.
The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Not For You is flat-out awesome, and Grenache doesn’t get any better in this reviewer’s opinion. Coming from 100-year-old vines in the Les Serres lieu-dit, in the southern end of the appellation, it was not destemmed and was brought up in a single new demi-muid. Incredible aromatics of darker berries, Provençal garrigue, ground pepper, lavender, and leather are just some of its nuances, and this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a deep, layered, opulent mouthfeel, full-bodied richness, ripe tannins, and a great, great finish. While this is a massive wine by any measure, it’s not over the top, stays perfectly balanced, has ripe tannins, and is an incredibly singular wine. Unfortunately, it will be just about impossible to find in the market. If you’re lucky enough to find a bottle, it should be at its best from 2026-2041.
2016 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Chateauneuf Du Pape Not For You !
There’s a single barrel of the 2016 Châteauneuf Du Pape Not For You, which is 100% Grenache from the Les Serres lieu-dit from the oldest vines of the estate. It wasn’t destemmed and spent two years in a neutral barrel. It offers an incredible bouquet of kirsch, blackberries, incense, white flowers, garrigue and spice that develops beautifully with time in the glass. Rich, powerful, full-bodied, and concentrated, it nevertheless glides over the palate with no weight, ultra-fine tannins, and a singular, exotic, lengthy style.
Unquestionably one of the top estates in France is that of brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, whose estate is located just north of the village of Châteauneuf du Pape, on the route to Orange. They pull from roughly 60 hectares of vines and the lineup has grown to include a Vin de France l’Unique, which replaces their Côtes Du Rhône, as well as a terrific Lirac. Looking at their Châteauneuf du Papes, the classic cuvée is always a Grenache heavy blend that include 15-20% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, as well as a small amount of Cinsault. This cuvée is normally mostly destemmed (the 2017 has around 30% stems) and is brought up in a mix of used barrels. The Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Mon Aïeul always comes from the La Serres, La Crau, and La Guigasse lieux-dits and is 100% Grenache. It can vary from being completely destemmed or not at all depending on the vintage, and while past vintages saw a touch of new oak, it’s raised all in used demi-muids today. They also produce a tiny amount of their Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres and it’s always been a more modern styled cuvée in the past, but the amount of new oak has been cut dramatically in recent vintages, with the 2016 only seeing 20% new barrels. This cuvée is always a cellar selection of the top lots in any vintage, and it’s unfortunately not made in either 2017 or 2018. Lastly, and only in great vintages, they’ll pull out a single barrel from the Les Serres lieu-dit that’s from the oldest vines of the estate. This “Not For You” cuvée has been released in 2007, 2010, and 2016, and it’s Grenache at its most sexy, flamboyant, and over the top.
2023 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Chateauneuf Du Pape Clos Pierre Usseglio n°18 PRERATING
A co-fermented blend of all 18 varieties, vinified in inox and aged in terra cotta amphora for a year with no destemming, the 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape Clos No 18 shows a medium ruby hue with a classy nose of mulled red fruits, Provençal herbs, spice, and licorice. It’s medium-bodied and has a supple, layered, elegant mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and outstanding length. It’s always an incredibly fun cuvée to taste and is a unique, singular effort that will be on a fast evolutionary track. Drink 2025-2032.
One of the leading estates (as well as a personal favorite) in Châteauneuf-du-Pape is Domaine Pierre Usseglio, which is run by brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, with the next generation of Gregory Usseglio now taking a larger and larger role. They farm roughly 60 hectares and produce a wide range of wines, including a Vin de France L’Unique (which replaced their Côtes du Rhône), a terrific Lirac in both red and white, and several Châteauneuf-du-Papes. The Première Pierre is the classic cuvée (75% Grenache with Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault), and there’s also the fun and eclectic Clos No 18, which includes all 18 permitted varieties… it’s never my favorite but always fun to taste. The two flagship cuvées are the Mon Aïeul (100% Grenache from Les Serres, Guigasse, and La Crau, vinified with whole clusters and aged in neutral demi-muids) and the Reserve des Deux Frères (100% Grenache from old vines, aged entirely in new barrels). These are two brilliant yet dramatically different expressions of Grenache. The 2023s are spectacular, with both the Mon Aïeul and Reserve reminding me slightly of the domaine’s 2006s (which are brilliant). The family opted not to produce their Reserve des Deux Frères cuvée in 2024, yet certainly the Mon Aïeul showed well.
2022 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Chateauneuf Du Pape Clos Pierre Usseglio n°18
A novelty experiment that includes all of the 18 permitted varieties (half of which are white) raised in amphora, the 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Clos Pierre 18 sports a light, translucent ruby/rose hue as well as a spicy nose of redcurrants, subtle cherry, and peppery herbs. Medium-bodied, charming, and elegant, it’s more interesting than pleasurable, and I suspect it’s best drunk in its youth.
2021 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Chateauneuf Du Pape Clos Pierre Usseglio n°18
Lots of red cherries, cured meats, leather, and savory, Provençal garrigue-like notes all emerge from the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Clos Pierre 18, a tiny production cuvée that’s a blend of every permitted grape variety in the appellation, red and white. It’s light ruby, almost rose-hued, has medium-bodied richness, and an elegant, pretty, forward style best drunk in its youth.
2020 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Chateauneuf Du Pape Clos Pierre Usseglio
The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Clos N18 is an eclectic blend of all the varieties (red and white) that are permitted in the appellation, fermented all together (they used a cold room to keep the early ripening varieties), destemmed and brought up all in amphora. Its translucent ruby hue is followed by a savory, complex nose of mulled red and black fruits, new leather, dried garrigue, forest floor, and wood smoke. It’s medium-bodied, refined, and finesse-driven, with supple tannins and a juicy, easygoing, incredibly balanced Pinot Noir-like style that I suspect will also evolve for 7-8 years, possibly longer.
One of the leading estates in Châteauneuf du Pape is unquestionably Domaine Pierre Usseglio, which is run by Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, with the next generation of Gregory Usseglio now working full-time with the estate as well. The lineup has shifted slightly over the years, with their Côtes du Rhône being replaced by the L’Unique label, which is released as a Vin de France. They produce a terrific Lirac, both red and white. Looking at the Châteauneuf du Pape releases, the classic red and white are now released under the label Premiere Pierre, and they’ve added the new Clos Pierre Usseglio 18 Cépages, which includes all 18 of the permitted grape varieties, red and white. The Cuvée Mon Aïeul and Reserve des Deux Freres remain unchanged and are two brilliant, yet dramatically different, expressions of Grenache.
2019 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Chateauneuf Du Pape Clos Pierre Usseglio
The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Clos Pierre Usseglio comes from a single parcel planted to all permitted varieties (red and white) and it’s always a singular, incredibly interesting wine. Bottled in April of this year, it has complex, almost old-school notes of pepper, leather, dried garrigue, cherries and mulled currants to go with medium-bodied richness and depth on the palate. The tannins are supple and polished, and it has considerable freshness as well as a great finish. It should last for a decade.
2018 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Chateauneuf Du Pape Clos Pierre Usseglio
Lastly, I was able to taste the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape Clos Pierre Usseglio, which like the 2019 is a mix of 5% each of all the permitted varieties brought up in amphora. Revealing a lighter ruby hue as well as an ethereal bouquet of cherries, strawberries, rose petals, and spice, this medium-bodied, soft, supple, yet endearing and elegant 2018 is best drunk over the coming 7-8 years or so.
