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2018 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils French Wine L’Unique

Leading off the reds and from parcels surrounding Châteauneuf Du Pape, the 2018 Vin De France L’Unique checks in as a mix of 50% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, and the rest Cinsault, Merlot, and Marselan. It’s a rocking Côtes Du Rhône lookalike that has plenty of black cherry, red currants, spice box, and garrigue aromas and flavors. It’s rounded, supple, fruit-forward, and one delicious bottle of wine.

Unquestionably one of the top estates in France is that of brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, whose estate is located just north of the village of Châteauneuf du Pape, on the route to Orange. They pull from roughly 60 hectares of vines and the lineup has grown to include a Vin de France l’Unique, which replaces their Côtes Du Rhône, as well as a terrific Lirac. Looking at their Châteauneuf du Papes, the classic cuvée is always a Grenache heavy blend that include 15-20% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, as well as a small amount of Cinsault. This cuvée is normally mostly destemmed (the 2017 has around 30% stems) and is brought up in a mix of used barrels. The Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Mon Aïeul always comes from the La Serres, La Crau, and La Guigasse lieux-dits and is 100% Grenache. It can vary from being completely destemmed or not at all depending on the vintage, and while past vintages saw a touch of new oak, it’s raised all in used demi-muids today. They also produce a tiny amount of their Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres and it’s always been a more modern styled cuvée in the past, but the amount of new oak has been cut dramatically in recent vintages, with the 2016 only seeing 20% new barrels. This cuvée is always a cellar selection of the top lots in any vintage, and it’s unfortunately not made in either 2017 or 2018. Lastly, and only in great vintages, they’ll pull out a single barrel from the Les Serres lieu-dit that’s from the oldest vines of the estate. This “Not For You” cuvée has been released in 2007, 2010, and 2016, and it’s Grenache at its most sexy, flamboyant, and over the top.

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Jeb Dunnuck (2018)

2020 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils French Wine L’Unique

Moving to the reds, the 2020 Vin De France L’Unique is a mix of varieties vinified and aged all in concrete. Lots of black raspberry and strawberry fruits as well spice and floral notes emerge on the nose, and it’s medium-bodied, has fine tannins and tons of fruit, and is just straight-up delicious. Drink it over the coming 3-4 years.

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Jeb Dunnuck (10/30/2023)

2019 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils French Wine L’Unique

I loved the 2019 L’Unique and this beauty is loaded with ripe raspberry and strawberry fruit notes as well as ample spice and floral characteristics. With medium to full-bodied richness, a rounded texture, and ample tannins, it’s a thrilling Vin de France that will drink beautifully for a decade or more.

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Jeb Dunnuck (10/30/2023)

2024 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac Blanc

Based on 50% Grenache Blanc and 50% Clairette Blanc and raised in 400-liter barrels with a touch in tank, the 2024 Lirac Blanc offers beautiful white peach, tart pineapple, spice, and mint with floral nuances as well as a kiss of minerality. It’s medium-bodied, has a pure, focused, elegant mouthfeel, and a good finish that brings solid richness while staying lively and fresh. Drink 2025-2030.

One of the leading estates (as well as a personal favorite) in Châteauneuf-du-Pape is Domaine Pierre Usseglio, which is run by brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, with the next generation of Gregory Usseglio now taking a larger and larger role. They farm roughly 60 hectares and produce a wide range of wines, including a Vin de France L’Unique (which replaced their Côtes du Rhône), a terrific Lirac in both red and white, and several Châteauneuf-du-Papes. The Première Pierre is the classic cuvée (75% Grenache with Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault), and there’s also the fun and eclectic Clos No 18, which includes all 18 permitted varieties… it’s never my favorite but always fun to taste. The two flagship cuvées are the Mon Aïeul (100% Grenache from Les Serres, Guigasse, and La Crau, vinified with whole clusters and aged in neutral demi-muids) and the Reserve des Deux Frères (100% Grenache from old vines, aged entirely in new barrels). These are two brilliant yet dramatically different expressions of Grenache. The 2023s are spectacular, with both the Mon Aïeul and Reserve reminding me slightly of the domaine’s 2006s (which are brilliant). The family opted not to produce their Reserve des Deux Frères cuvée in 2024, yet certainly the Mon Aïeul showed well.

— Jeb Dunnuck (2024)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (2024)

2022 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac Blanc

A blend of Grenache Blanc and Clairette, the 2022 Lirac Blanc is more medium gold-hued with a more serious style in its pear and orchard fruits as well as spice and hints of minerality. Nicely textured, medium-bodied, balanced, and elegant on the palate, it’s a beautiful white that will shine on the dinner table.

— Jeb Dunnuck (10/6/2020)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (8/16/2019)

2021 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac Blanc

The 2021 Lirac Blanc is terrific, and outside of Châteauneuf du Pape, Lirac might be producing some of the best whites in the region. Honeyed lime, mineral, flowers, and citrus all emerge on the nose, and it’s medium-bodied and clean, with a great texture and a crisp finish. Based on Clairette and Grenache, brought up in a mix of barrels and tank, it’s perfect for enjoying over the coming 2-3 years.

One of the leading estates in Châteauneuf du Pape is unquestionably Domaine Pierre Usseglio, which is run by Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, with the next generation of Gregory Usseglio now working full-time with the estate as well. The lineup has shifted slightly over the years, with their Côtes du Rhône being replaced by the L’Unique label, which is released as a Vin de France. They produce a terrific Lirac, both red and white. Looking at the Châteauneuf du Pape releases, the classic red and white are now released under the label Premiere Pierre, and they’ve added the new Clos Pierre Usseglio 18 Cépages, which includes all 18 of the permitted grape varieties, red and white. The Cuvée Mon Aïeul and Reserve des Deux Freres remain unchanged and are two brilliant, yet dramatically different, expressions of Grenache.

— Jeb Dunnuck 2021
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (2021)

2020 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac Blanc

Slightly more focused and chiseled on the palate, the 2020 Lirac Blanc has classy notes of apple blossom, pear, and peach to go with a medium-bodied, nicely textured, fresh and lively style on the palate. It even shows a touch of salty mineral on the finish and will be incredibly versatile on the dinner table.

— Jeb Dunnuck (10/6/2020)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (8/16/2019)

2019 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac Blanc

Starting with the 2019 Lirac Blanc from Pierre Usseglio, this light gold-hued beauty has a great bouquet of spiced citrus, lime, sappy flowers, and a touch of minerality that comes through on the palate. Medium-bodied and beautifully balanced, with racy acidity yet plenty of fruit, this is a terrific Lirac to enjoy over the coming 2-4 years.

— Jeb Dunnuck (10/6/2020)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (8/16/2019)

2023 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac

Based mostly on Grenache with 15% each of Mourvèdre and Syrah and 10% Cinsault, the 2023 Lirac was aged for a year with each variety raised differently: Grenache in foudre, Mourvèdre in demi-muids, Syrah in barrels, and Cinsault in 300-liter muids d’Oc. Deep ruby-hued, it offers solid aromatics of ripe black cherries, peppery herbs, loamy earth, and crushed stone. It’s medium-bodied and has a nicely layered, elegant mouthfeel with ripe tannins and outstanding length. This is another beautiful 2023 from this team that will drink well over the coming 5-7 years. Drink 2025-2032.

One of the leading estates (as well as a personal favorite) in Châteauneuf-du-Pape is Domaine Pierre Usseglio, which is run by brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, with the next generation of Gregory Usseglio now taking a larger and larger role. They farm roughly 60 hectares and produce a wide range of wines, including a Vin de France L’Unique (which replaced their Côtes du Rhône), a terrific Lirac in both red and white, and several Châteauneuf-du-Papes. The Première Pierre is the classic cuvée (75% Grenache with Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault), and there’s also the fun and eclectic Clos No 18, which includes all 18 permitted varieties… it’s never my favorite but always fun to taste. The two flagship cuvées are the Mon Aïeul (100% Grenache from Les Serres, Guigasse, and La Crau, vinified with whole clusters and aged in neutral demi-muids) and the Reserve des Deux Frères (100% Grenache from old vines, aged entirely in new barrels). These are two brilliant yet dramatically different expressions of Grenache. The 2023s are spectacular, with both the Mon Aïeul and Reserve reminding me slightly of the domaine’s 2006s (which are brilliant). The family opted not to produce their Reserve des Deux Frères cuvée in 2024, yet certainly the Mon Aïeul showed well.

— Jeb Dunnuck (2023)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (2023)

2022 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac

Not yet bottled, the 2022 Lirac is 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, and 10% each of Syrah and Cinsault that saw a splash of stems and is still resting all in foudre. Ripe black cherries, black licorice, and peppery, savory herb notes all define the aromatics, and it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a layered, mouth-filling texture, and outstanding length.

— Jeb Dunnuck (10/6/2020)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (8/16/2019)

2021 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac

The 2021 Lirac is a pretty, supple, elegant wine offering quality red fruits (cherries, strawberries), some pepper and spice hints, medium body, and a clean, balanced, classy style.

One of the leading estates in Châteauneuf du Pape is unquestionably Domaine Pierre Usseglio, which is run by Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, with the next generation of Gregory Usseglio now working full-time with the estate as well. The lineup has shifted slightly over the years, with their Côtes du Rhône being replaced by the L’Unique label, which is released as a Vin de France. They produce a terrific Lirac, both red and white. Looking at the Châteauneuf du Pape releases, the classic red and white are now released under the label Premiere Pierre, and they’ve added the new Clos Pierre Usseglio 18 Cépages, which includes all 18 of the permitted grape varieties, red and white. The Cuvée Mon Aïeul and Reserve des Deux Freres remain unchanged and are two brilliant, yet dramatically different, expressions of Grenache.

— Jeb Dunnuck (2021)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (2021)

2020 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac

The 2020 Lirac is a terrific and makes the difference between 2020 and 2021 clear as day. Ripe black raspberries, licorice, herbes de Provence, and peppery notes define this beauty, and it’s medium to full-bodied, with a round, layered mouthfeel and a great finish.

One of the leading estates in Châteauneuf du Pape is unquestionably Domaine Pierre Usseglio, which is run by Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, with the next generation of Gregory Usseglio now working full-time with the estate as well. The lineup has shifted slightly over the years, with their Côtes du Rhône being replaced by the L’Unique label, which is released as a Vin de France. They produce a terrific Lirac, both red and white. Looking at the Châteauneuf du Pape releases, the classic red and white are now released under the label Premiere Pierre, and they’ve added the new Clos Pierre Usseglio 18 Cépages, which includes all 18 of the permitted grape varieties, red and white. The Cuvée Mon Aïeul and Reserve des Deux Freres remain unchanged and are two brilliant, yet dramatically different, expressions of Grenache.

— Jeb Dunnuck (2020)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

Voir plus

Jeb Dunnuck (2020)