LIRAC ROUGE 2023

2023 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac

Based mostly on Grenache with 15% each of Mourvèdre and Syrah and 10% Cinsault, the 2023 Lirac was aged for a year with each variety raised differently: Grenache in foudre, Mourvèdre in demi-muids, Syrah in barrels, and Cinsault in 300-liter muids d’Oc. Deep ruby-hued, it offers solid aromatics of ripe black cherries, peppery herbs, loamy earth, and crushed stone. It’s medium-bodied and has a nicely layered, elegant mouthfeel with ripe tannins and outstanding length. This is another beautiful 2023 from this team that will drink well over the coming 5-7 years. Drink 2025-2032.

One of the leading estates (as well as a personal favorite) in Châteauneuf-du-Pape is Domaine Pierre Usseglio, which is run by brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, with the next generation of Gregory Usseglio now taking a larger and larger role. They farm roughly 60 hectares and produce a wide range of wines, including a Vin de France L’Unique (which replaced their Côtes du Rhône), a terrific Lirac in both red and white, and several Châteauneuf-du-Papes. The Première Pierre is the classic cuvée (75% Grenache with Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault), and there’s also the fun and eclectic Clos No 18, which includes all 18 permitted varieties… it’s never my favorite but always fun to taste. The two flagship cuvées are the Mon Aïeul (100% Grenache from Les Serres, Guigasse, and La Crau, vinified with whole clusters and aged in neutral demi-muids) and the Reserve des Deux Frères (100% Grenache from old vines, aged entirely in new barrels). These are two brilliant yet dramatically different expressions of Grenache. The 2023s are spectacular, with both the Mon Aïeul and Reserve reminding me slightly of the domaine’s 2006s (which are brilliant). The family opted not to produce their Reserve des Deux Frères cuvée in 2024, yet certainly the Mon Aïeul showed well.

— Jeb Dunnuck (2023)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (2023)

2022 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac

Not yet bottled, the 2022 Lirac is 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, and 10% each of Syrah and Cinsault that saw a splash of stems and is still resting all in foudre. Ripe black cherries, black licorice, and peppery, savory herb notes all define the aromatics, and it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a layered, mouth-filling texture, and outstanding length.

— Jeb Dunnuck (10/6/2020)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (8/16/2019)

2021 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac

The 2021 Lirac is a pretty, supple, elegant wine offering quality red fruits (cherries, strawberries), some pepper and spice hints, medium body, and a clean, balanced, classy style.

One of the leading estates in Châteauneuf du Pape is unquestionably Domaine Pierre Usseglio, which is run by Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, with the next generation of Gregory Usseglio now working full-time with the estate as well. The lineup has shifted slightly over the years, with their Côtes du Rhône being replaced by the L’Unique label, which is released as a Vin de France. They produce a terrific Lirac, both red and white. Looking at the Châteauneuf du Pape releases, the classic red and white are now released under the label Premiere Pierre, and they’ve added the new Clos Pierre Usseglio 18 Cépages, which includes all 18 of the permitted grape varieties, red and white. The Cuvée Mon Aïeul and Reserve des Deux Freres remain unchanged and are two brilliant, yet dramatically different, expressions of Grenache.

— Jeb Dunnuck (2021)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (2021)

2020 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac

The 2020 Lirac is a terrific and makes the difference between 2020 and 2021 clear as day. Ripe black raspberries, licorice, herbes de Provence, and peppery notes define this beauty, and it’s medium to full-bodied, with a round, layered mouthfeel and a great finish.

One of the leading estates in Châteauneuf du Pape is unquestionably Domaine Pierre Usseglio, which is run by Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, with the next generation of Gregory Usseglio now working full-time with the estate as well. The lineup has shifted slightly over the years, with their Côtes du Rhône being replaced by the L’Unique label, which is released as a Vin de France. They produce a terrific Lirac, both red and white. Looking at the Châteauneuf du Pape releases, the classic red and white are now released under the label Premiere Pierre, and they’ve added the new Clos Pierre Usseglio 18 Cépages, which includes all 18 of the permitted grape varieties, red and white. The Cuvée Mon Aïeul and Reserve des Deux Freres remain unchanged and are two brilliant, yet dramatically different, expressions of Grenache.

— Jeb Dunnuck (2020)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (2020)

2019 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac

This estate makes a beautiful Lirac and their 2019 is 50% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah, and a splash of Cinsault that’s from a mix of different terroirs. Destemmed and brought up in equal parts demi-muids and concrete tanks, it’s a seriously good wine that has loads of black raspberry, spice, and garrigue notes, medium to full body, a lush, ripe, yet seamless mouthfeel, and a great finish. It’s well worth seeking out and is ideal for drinking over the coming 3-5 years.

Moving to the 2019s from bottle, the 2019 Lirac offers medium to full-bodied aromas and flavors of dark fruits, peppery herbs, earth, and hints of violets. It’s textured, balanced, and a rock-solid bottle of wine that will evolve for 5-7 years.

— Jeb Dunnuck (10/6/2020)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (8/16/2019)

2018 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac

The 2018 Lirac is made from 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and the rest Mourvèdre, all brought up in foudre, demi-muid and tank. It’s a more serious, straight, nicely structured wine compared to the L’Unique cuvée and has beautiful black raspberry and hints of cassis fruit, plenty of pepper, garrigue, and floral notes, medium body, beautiful balanced, and sweet tannins. It’s another charming, beautiful wine to enjoy over the coming 4-6 years.

Unquestionably one of the top estates in France is that of brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, whose estate is located just north of the village of Châteauneuf du Pape, on the route to Orange. They pull from roughly 60 hectares of vines and the lineup has grown to include a Vin de France l’Unique, which replaces their Côtes Du Rhône, as well as a terrific Lirac. Looking at their Châteauneuf du Papes, the classic cuvée is always a Grenache heavy blend that include 15-20% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, as well as a small amount of Cinsault. This cuvée is normally mostly destemmed (the 2017 has around 30% stems) and is brought up in a mix of used barrels. The Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Mon Aïeul always comes from the La Serres, La Crau, and La Guigasse lieux-dits and is 100% Grenache. It can vary from being completely destemmed or not at all depending on the vintage, and while past vintages saw a touch of new oak, it’s raised all in used demi-muids today. They also produce a tiny amount of their Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres and it’s always been a more modern styled cuvée in the past, but the amount of new oak has been cut dramatically in recent vintages, with the 2016 only seeing 20% new barrels. This cuvée is always a cellar selection of the top lots in any vintage, and it’s unfortunately not made in either 2017 or 2018. Lastly, and only in great vintages, they’ll pull out a single barrel from the Les Serres lieu-dit that’s from the oldest vines of the estate. This “Not For You” cuvée has been released in 2007, 2010, and 2016, and it’s Grenache at its most sexy, flamboyant, and over the top.

— Jeb Dunnuck (2018)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (2018)

2017 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac

A blend of 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault, the 2017 Lirac was brought up in a mix of demi-muid and tank. It has classic notes of black raspberries, cassis, white flowers, graphite, and pepper. These carry to a medium to full-bodied red that has fine tannins, a balanced, classic, elegant profile, and a great finish.

Unquestionably one of the top estates in France is that of brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, whose estate is located just north of the village of Châteauneuf du Pape, on the route to Orange. They pull from roughly 60 hectares of vines and the lineup has grown to include a Vin de France l’Unique, which replaces their Côtes Du Rhône, as well as a terrific Lirac. Looking at their Châteauneuf du Papes, the classic cuvée is always a Grenache heavy blend that include 15-20% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, as well as a small amount of Cinsault. This cuvée is normally mostly destemmed (the 2017 has around 30% stems) and is brought up in a mix of used barrels. The Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Mon Aïeul always comes from the La Serres, La Crau, and La Guigasse lieux-dits and is 100% Grenache. It can vary from being completely destemmed or not at all depending on the vintage, and while past vintages saw a touch of new oak, it’s raised all in used demi-muids today. They also produce a tiny amount of their Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres and it’s always been a more modern styled cuvée in the past, but the amount of new oak has been cut dramatically in recent vintages, with the 2016 only seeing 20% new barrels. This cuvée is always a cellar selection of the top lots in any vintage, and it’s unfortunately not made in either 2017 or 2018. Lastly, and only in great vintages, they’ll pull out a single barrel from the Les Serres lieu-dit that’s from the oldest vines of the estate. This “Not For You” cuvée has been released in 2007, 2010, and 2016, and it’s Grenache at its most sexy, flamboyant, and over the top.

— Jeb Dunnuck (2017)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (2017)

2016 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Lirac

The 2016 Lirac checks in as 70% Grenache and the rest Mourvèdre, Syrah, and other permitted varieties, with the Mourvèdre and Syrah brought up mostly in demi-muids. Blackberries, garrigue, peppery herbs, licorice, and earth characteristics give way to a full-bodied, pure, elegant, beautifully textured 2016 that has remarkable purity and length. It’s one of the finest Liracs out there.

When you consider what this estate has accomplished over the past two decades, it’s easy to include Domaine Pierre Usseglio as not only one of the top addresses in Châteauneuf-du-Pape but in all of France as well. They have been on a sensational roll since 1998 and have yet to put a foot wrong. And that’s apparent with these latest 2016s, which I believe are the best wines ever produced here. In addition to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape releases, the estate makes a fabulous Côtes du Rhône and Lirac, both of which over-deliver.

— Jeb Dunnuck (2016)
© 2020 Jeb Dunnuck | Reprinted with Permission

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Jeb Dunnuck (2016)