Not yet bottled and based on 100% Grenache from La Crau, La Guigasse, and a small amount of old vines from La Serre, the 2023 Ch\u00e2teauneuf Du Pape Reserve Des Deux Fr\u00e8res is a selection of old vines aged entirely in new barrels. It brings considerably more power and richness, with smoky black cherries, cured meats, licorice, and tapenade, and it shows more floral nuances with time in the glass. It’s medium to full-bodied, has a rich, layered mouthfeel, ripe tannins, beautifully integrated oak, and a great finish. It’s another 2006 look-alike that should need just 3-4 years of bottle age yet have 25 years of overall longevity.
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\nOne of the leading estates (as well as a personal favorite) in Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape is Domaine Pierre Usseglio, which is run by brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, with the next generation of Gregory Usseglio now taking a larger and larger role. They farm roughly 60 hectares and produce a wide range of wines, including a Vin de France L’Unique (which replaced their C\u00f4tes du Rh\u00f4ne), a terrific Lirac in both red and white, and several Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Papes. The Premi\u00e8re Pierre is the classic cuv\u00e9e (75% Grenache with Syrah, Mourv\u00e8dre, and Cinsault), and there’s also the fun and eclectic Clos No 18, which includes all 18 permitted varieties\u2026 it’s never my favorite but always fun to taste. The two flagship cuv\u00e9es are the Mon A\u00efeul (100% Grenache from Les Serres, Guigasse, and La Crau, vinified with whole clusters and aged in neutral demi-muids) and the Reserve des Deux Fr\u00e8res (100% Grenache from old vines, aged entirely in new barrels). These are two brilliant yet dramatically different expressions of Grenache. The 2023s are spectacular, with both the Mon A\u00efeul and Reserve reminding me slightly of the domaine’s 2006s (which are brilliant). The family opted not to produce their Reserve des Deux Fr\u00e8res cuv\u00e9e in 2024, yet certainly the Mon A\u00efeul showed well.<\/p>\n